Monday, August 12, 2013

Revisiting History Two Decades Later....

Back during my school days, books for the academic year would be issued a few weeks prior to the school opening. You were expected to cover and label them during this period. School administrators in those days loved emulating Henry Ford, I think. Just as Mr. Henry decreed that his customers could have their Model T painted in any color as long as it was black, schools allowed book covers of any color as long as they were brown. Girls in class invariably drew beautiful patterns in blue ink to make the book look appealing. Boys being boys believed that applying sticker labels was appealing enough.

There were two subjects whose books I would completely finish reading even before the school year began. One was English. History was another. Flipping through historical events was an engaging exercise to magically go back in time and apply vivid imagination to people, places and things. Stories do that to you. Full Disclosure: two other subjects were hardly touched even after the school year ended - Math and Science {grin}.

Reading history in those days was also a structured opening of the mind. You knew much of Indian civilization, kingdoms, invaders, British colonialists and the Indian leaders of independence by Class 8. Class 9 exposed you to European history. And Class 10 - among other things - was about the World Wars, Iron Curtain, and 40 years of independent India.

But imagination had limits.

How do you relate to the Berlin Airlift at a time when internet was non-existent, TV was Doordarshan and the Encyclopedia Britannica way too expensive? The Berlin Airlift operation involved allied planes flying into Berlin to supply food and fuel when the Soviet Union blockaded land routes to Berlin. But then, how could the Soviet Union blockade ALL of Berlin?

And what was the deal about the Wall? The city was anyway divided between West Germany & East Germany. How did it matter that the East decided to formalise it by putting a wall around?

Why did 'Ich bin ein Berliner' by JFK and 'Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall' by Reagan elicit thunderous applause by the crowds? Why are they rated - even today - among the greatest speeches ever made?

The limitation of history is that it only tells what happened, thereby resulting in naive questions like above. To fully understand why, you sometimes have to go there.

My first view of the Wall was that it was not imposing. 12 feet in height, a benevolent looking curvature at the top and no spikes don't give you the shivers. Plus, the East Side Gallery - as this section is called - is today painted in vibrant color.

           
 

 










But answers begin to unravel when you pore deep - and look at old maps.

When the four victorious powers of WWII divided Germany into four administrative zones (each zone administered by a victor), Berlin was in the middle of the Soviet zone. Since Berlin was the historic capital, they also agreed to divide Berlin into four sectors with the Soviets guaranteeing permanent air routes into the city. As relations between the Soviets & the rest began to deteriorate, the Soviets blockaded all land supply routes into Berlin in order to force the other 3 powers to evacuate the city. The result was the Airlift using the previously agreed air routes that turned the view of the allies by the German public from 'occupiers' to 'saviors'.

Berlin's sectors continued to exist even after the formation of West & East Germany. It remained an undivided city with people from the east working in higher paying factories of the west and people from the west shopping in the east where goods were cheap. Heck, trains ran all around Berlin too.

Until 12 years later, when East Germany woke up to the fact that nearly 20% of its population had emigrated to the west via Berlin. And promptly put up the Wall and barbed wire around West Berlin, creating in effect a walled city of 100 miles. Families were separated, friends were split and a city population was sorrounded by an enemy.

That explains the emotion among teeming masses gathered to hear JFK & Reagan. When a nation and city united for long is suddenly separated by brutal regimes and artificial structures, expressions of solidarity swell emotion, evoke pride and make you work harder to reunite.

The remnants of the Wall today are a reminder that regimes that separate people and curb freedoms will one day ultimately fail. And a wake-up call to the rest of the world that there are other brutal regimes too.

 

Tuesday, August 06, 2013

Experiencing Blindness - Dialogue in the Dark

It's 12:15 AM on Sunday and I am at the Hamburg Central Train Station about to board the 12:38 AM intercity to Bremen, the city I have come on business a couple of weeks ago. Travel in Europe is a charm. Connectivity is fantastic, passengers mill about past midnight and there are so many places to see.
 
Visiting places during weekends while on business all week has another advantage. You  can plan getaways till the end, buy last minute tickets and still make your trip memorable.

Late Friday, at the end of a very sweltering day, I suddenly decided to go to Hamburg on Saturday. Tripadvisor and YouTube listed 10 places. Most were regulars that you come across any sightseeing calendar in any part of the world (a historic building, a museum, an old business district etc) but one listing was intriguing.

Because it was not a place to sightsee. It was a place meant to experience blindness.
 
Dialog Im Dunkeln (Dialogue in the Dark) is an exhibition conceived 20 years ago by journalist Andreas Heinecke to help people understand that blindness is neither a disability nor a curse, but just a different set of abilities that fellow citizens have. It is meant to raise awareness of people with sight on what it means to be blind. And to be appreciative and more inclusive of the blind fellow person.

For 90 minutes, our group of seven - white canes in hand and not much physical hand holding - was led through a series of chambers in total darkness by a guide who easily remembered our names and our relative positions. We stepped into a park, walked on gravel, smelt spices, touched vegetables, crossed a road, walked on a bridge, traveled by boat, squatted on the floor to listen to music, and enjoyed our drinks in a bar.

It is in moments like these that you tip your hat to the human spirit. We were strangers yet were instinctively helping each other. We tolerated when someone stepped on our shoes. Not one person spoke out loud. And we were not just hearing, but truly listening.

The guide was outstanding. A half Sri Lankan and half German, she had been born blind. Her English was flawless and she had a sweet firm voice. She banged on walls and advised us to follow the sound. Or made one of us lead - and help - the rest. Sometimes she was ahead and sometimes behind. She took our money in the bar, knew the amount, returned the change, opened the cooler (it had no lights but I got the Sprite I ordered) and handed over refreshments. She was focused on helping us realise that lack of vision is not an end but an opportunity to employ our other senses to still experience joy.
 
Words like 'visually challenged' or 'visually impacted' were never used during this tour. Blindness is a state, she said, that's just different.

We never saw her. But we will never forget her.

If there is ever a chance that the blind exhibition comes to your town, please don't miss it. Hamburg is one permanent location. So is Hyderabad in India. Other cities host them too.

Darkness can shed so much light.